Torn Hearts in Poland – Part II

Torn Hearts in Poland – Part II

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WAIT! This is the second part of Michele’s adventure in Krakow.
Have you read the first?

It’s strange to feel happy in a cemetery

Staying on the top of a hill in Krakow’s suburbs, right in the middle of a cemetery, could seem at least strange: I know it’s not the typical excursion to have during a trip. Well, I have to admit that I felt happy, up there. It was a strange kind of happiness, but I’m sure I recognized it: silence, sun, an unthinkable panorama, far away from almost everyone. Yet, I had no idea how to get to the Torn hearts Monument and I was getting further and further from the city centre. I had to hurry up.

Traveller is walking on a Hill

You can get lost, McDonald’s can’t

I should have hurried up but I didn’t. I came down the hill very slowly, with a smile on my face. Going through the wood, I felt peace. Somehow, I found myself back in the civil world. Well, more or less. There was only a large, busy road crossed by a few cars. Cement and green like a different kind of yin and yang. I asked once again for some information to an old lady who works in an antique store: she drawn just two lines on a piece of paper and told me: “Right, then straight”. She was vague, I know. I went on walking for others two hours, right next to the ring road. At a certain point, I found the only place everyone can find in every part of the world: a damn McDonald’s. “Even here!”, I exclaimed.

Torn hearts Monument

I had a beer. I was tired and the sun was hitting so hard on Krakow. Then, I saw an old, abandoned building. I asked what was that and a man told me it was the house of a nazi colonel during the 40’s and that in the space behind that building there was the largest open-air lager of Europe. So, I went beyond the nazi-house and I saw a dirt path. I started crossing it and I found myself into another wood; I continued walking and I arrived on the top of another green hill. No cement, no human beings, no noise. Suddenly, I saw it. It was stunning. I ran towards it. Damn, it was a good idea to trust that song. Torn hearts Monument was dedicated to all the people who had died in that immense open-air lager. I sat in front of it and stayed there for a long time, staring at it. I think I cried. It was the most meaningful experience of my life.




Fun fact

When I walked away from there, I saw a bus just in front of the McDonald’s. I took it: “I just need to get next to the city centre, then I’ll be able to get back to the hotel without any difficulties”. That random bus left me just in front of my hotel. I am so grateful I couldn’t know it this morning, when I went out.


«La terra, l’Emilia, la luna, io e te

davanti al monumento dei cuori strappati

appena fuori Cracovia. »

From my skin’s logbook:

Krakow, 08/08/2017

Written by Michele Clemente

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